Wednesday, 30 September 2009

Kilimanjaro Fight News

Fight Night

We were all sitting round in the mess tent in the shadow of Mount Wendy in the early evening on the fourth afternoon when the usual hubbub from the kitchen tent took an unusual tone. Voices were raised and the usual banter turned angry and confrontational. We all looked at each other and wondered if we should go outside and take a look. Two minutes later we were all out of the tent as things really did take a turn for the worse.

Davis, one of our assistant guides, emerged form the kitchen tent moaning and wailing, clutching his face and sank to his knees. All the porters were pushing and shoving each other while, the chef Spider was being dragged away by the rest. He managed to break free and pick up a massive rock with two hands and hurl it at the stricken Davis, narrowly missing his head.

Apparently, Davis has gotten drunk while we were on our acclimatization walk and he confronted Spider in the kitchen, which was a further incident in a long running feud. One thing led to another and a pan of boiling water had been thrown into his face hence the wailing and the melting skin. Fortunately, Rob, our leader, was a trained emergency nurse and was able to patch him up and deal with the immediate pain. He was cleaned up and marched down for 6 hours into the valley in order to get treatment at the local hospital. "Get control of you camp," shouted Rob to the head guide.

We were all asked to go and sit in mess tent while things were calmed down. No one really spoke and it was all very disconcerting. After about 15 minutes Davis came in to speak to us. What was in effect a pep talk to make sure we all carried on and got to the top was delivered in a slurred and barely comprehensible way due to the obvious pain he was in and the whisky he'd been drinking. This was all hard for us because we didn't know who was in the right or the wrong. Frankly we still don't.

Anyway, once he left camp sort of returned to normal. A number of the group were clearly shocked by witnessing a vicious assault and we were all pleased that things hadn't escalated beyond what we saw. Somehow we still got fed an hour or so later and went to bed all feeling a bit wierded out. Spider returned to his duties and everyone in the camp appeared to then spend the next 3 days pretending nothing happened.

It didn't seem the authorities had though, on our arrival at the exit from the national park on day 7, we were met by armed guards. They took away Spider for questioning and wanted to speak to Rob and Tosha the Head Guide. That was the last we saw or heard. I know we all have a workplace disagreements but this was something else.


Kilimanjaro Celebrity News

Forget St Tropez, Kilimanjaro is the place to celeb-spot these days

Roman Abramovich quits in his tent after too much vodka the night before his attempt on the summit and blames it on altitude. Like his team, no class.

Cheryl Cole and Chris Moyles I take it all back. Red Nose Day Climb videos and the chance to see Heaven, Tosha and Abraham in the background.

Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel jump on the same bandwagon.

Not really a celebrity but we did see the guy who managed to climb Kili without having any legs!

Kilimanjaro Lessons News

- Gulping oxygen at high altitude gives you wind
- Don't save your snacks and water for later
- Don't believe what anyone says about camping, it really is rubbish, it's like sleeping on the floor
- People from the South West really do think the Wurzels are great
- You can't eat too much on a trek
- Leopards are shy, nocturnal, sleep in trees, are camouflagued and very rare. There's no chance of ticking them off on safari, whatever the guide says
- Never underestimate people - "So your name is Jess, as in Jessica from the Merchant of Venice, that's my favourite book" - Noah, one of our guides

Kilimanjaro Nature News

The descent into the Ngorogoro crater - it's a bit like a living, breathing Jurassic Park 
















Babar and the elephants head for the pool




10 feet from a lionness, she didn't seem bothered




Hippo pool, 12 hours a day asleep - good life



In the middle there is actually a mighty male lion, with a big mane and everything. We kept our distance.




Wildebeasts, not the smartest




Zebras, like dumb horses with better clothes




Oxford Circus at 6pm, baboon style




Elephant on the way for a drink, giraffe on the way back
















There's actually a big ass python asleep in this tree if you look carefully




















We only got so close to this giraffe because it had an injured leg, which is bad, but photo opportunity is good.



Kilimanjaro Stats News

- Kilimanjaro is 19,331 feet high, so it is
- Qigong (Chicken Yoga) is the most popular form of exercise in China
- The fastest ascent was in 5 hours 38 minutes of madness
- Tanzania comes from putting the names of Tanganyika and Zanzibar together
- The capital of Tanzania is Dodoma, not Dar el Salaam as most people think it is

Kilimanjaro Health News










I thought I'd succintly convey my hypochondria in spreadsheet form

Kilimanjaro Video News

This is a great video of the porters at the tip-giving ceremony

Kilimanjaro Gallery News


The cast list in no particular order...


Keni - one of the King's of the Hill on summit day














James, looking surprised to have a camera in his face after a few too many Kili beers




















Kylie takes it all in her stride as usual




















Pauline in the shadow of Mount Wendy




















Safari compadre, lover of alcohol for medicinal purposes and team doctor, Gareth



















Lucy, Queen of the Hill on summit day




















Big Dave, before he grew to become Naked Dave, and Big Bad Dave




















Kat, always smiling




















Action Andy of the South West Tourist Board





















Patrick, tent-mate, safari partner and Sunderland supporter. Still two out of there ain't bad.




















Paul, the cheeriest man alive




















Penny, the first Togolese lady to make it to the top




















Captain Rob, Chicken yoga instructor, paramedic and all round nice guy




















Jim, he reminded me of Spurs beating Liverpool so I was sick at his feet




















The one and only Fraggle




















The walkers' morale budgerigar, Rach





















Lee, Liverpool supporter and two time Kili adventurer



















Ponts, with James and Rob for company















West Ham's finest, Simon














Big John














Yasmin strikes a pose















Jo in her cool shades, with Yasmin








Rob makes it in one piece



Kilimanjaro Family News

My mum died of breast cancer nearly 19 years ago. I've now lived over half my life without her, yet every day she still influences the person I am, the way I act and how I live my life.















All the best things I've done in my life came after she died; her death was the spur to get on with life, live every day and make the most of my opportunities.














She didn't get to see me pass my A-levels, travel the world on my own, get into Cambridge, work for the Guardian & the Observer, live in Barcelona, meet any of my girlfriends, speak Spanish, run a youth camp in Chile, buy a flat, lift a cup, finish a triathlon, become a managing director or, for that matter, stand on top of Mount Kilimanjaro. But I couldn't have done it without her.




















What breaks my heart is that she knew that she wasn't going to be around for these milestones and just got on with the time she had left anyway.















Honestly, I don't think about her that often, this isn't a conscious thing, it's just that I've closed that part of my brain down over the years. Sitting on the top of the mountain looking out over the glacier, exhausted and slightly hollow it did allow me to think about her again and what she meant to me. It allowed me some space to re-engage this buried part of my head. Sometimes you have to push yourself to the edge to rediscover what's at your core.

Kilimanjaro Adventure News

Just to put climbing Kilimanjaro in to my adventure hierarchy

1 - Kilimanjaro - enough said














2 - Camino de Santiago - 270k of biblical style suffering at one end and 100k of craziness at the other













3 - South West Coast Path - 108 miles of coastal up and down, up and down, up and down




















4 - Torres del Paine - 5 days doing the W-route in the most amazing mountains ever



















5 - Macchu Picchu - 4 day trek to get to the sun gate, looking down on it as the sun-rises behind















6 - Picos de Europa - Cares Gorge, the hardest ascent before I did Kili



















7 - Sendero de Chile - 17 days of path clearing in the Andes with assorted leaders and venturers














8 - Mount Sinai - climbing up in the afternoon to see the sunset over the Egyptian highlands















9 - Annapurna Valley - 10 day trek in foothills of the Annapurna mountain range, accompanied by the Nepalese leech population















10 - Mount Everest - I saw it from the Kathmandu to Lhasa road in Tibet

Kilimanjaro Charity News

Justgiving
So far in total I've raised / contributed £4,800. Here's my Just Giving page if you want to add anymore to the total

Breast Cancer Campaign
I was raising money for Breast Cancer Campaign. To find out more about them and the work they do click here

Charity Challenge
These were the people who arranged the actual challenge. They also managed to get Chris Moyles up to the top so they must be good. Here's their website

Kilimanjaro Routine News

If you want to know what a typical day was like, well it was typically like this

- 6.30am - "wakey, wakey". "Cup of tea?"
- 7.00am - "washy, washy". No thanks mate, not my bag
- 7.30am - breakfast - porridge, tea, toast, some bacon, occasional random fruits
- 8.15am - chicken yoga
- 8.16am - giggling at chicken yoga
- 9.00am - off we go
- 11.00am - snacks
- 1.00pm - arrive at camp and lunch
- 2.00pm - lie down, arrrrr
- 3.00pm - daily acclimatisation walk, not mentioned in the brochures
- 4.30pm - finish for the day, tea
- 4.45pm - throw boiling water in people's faces (optional)
- 5.30pm - chicken yoga round 2
- 5.31pm - sniggering starts
- 6.30pm - dinner - soup, bread, something meat based, variable desert
- 7.30pm - Nottingham Trent Canoe Club stories
- 8 til late - shithead
- 9-10ish - bed, well, sleeping on the floor
- 12pm - piss, fail to get back to sleep...doze badly, wake up in bad mood, snooze

Obviously this was all thrown out the window Summit Night

Kilimanjaro Sponsorship News

A word for my sponsors - Thanks

Peter and Sue Carmichael
Chris Stormont
Cath and Graham Soar
Buzz
Tom Harle
Kev Gardner
Dave Hughes
Chris Thornton
Wilf Thust
Jennifer Ives
Keith Pringle
Martin and Giorgia Lanchester
Audrey
Ian Gray
Hattie Frazer
JT & Leah
Susanna May
Dom Harding
Rory Mee
Chris & Celine
Carl & Sally Messner-Lyons
Maria Adrados Gillett
Nina Modig
Luke Edwards-Stuart
David & Georgina Pierce
Jonny Green
Cora Thust
Andy, Leanne and Gabes Blustin
Celia Bagshaw
Mark Hubbard
Rob Brisbourne
Angela, Mark and Luca Frodsham
Karen, Darren, Dom and Cecily Hanson
Mark & Grace Davie
MNC
Joe & Emma Davie
Glennis Chan
Jo Woodthorpe-Smith
Trudi Hudson
Simon Hughes
Alex, Em, Phoebe, Annmaire, Helen & friends from nude skincare
Richard Davis
The APA
Tabitha Codd
Si & Emma Whitmore
Rob Luke
Phil & Jo
Simon Shercliff
Ros McLaren
Helen Marks
Cat Nantel
Jim Brunning
Andy Taylor
Nick Townend
Pete Davie
Lucy Eyers
Jude & James Davies
Mike King
Katie, Richard and Rosie Harrill
Dad
Teresa O'Regan
Sammy McIlroy
Sarah Dunleavy
Louise Thust & Chris
The PKR boys
Jude Brooks
Nicky Drake
Liza Wostmann
Isabel Milner
Allan Maxwell
Annabel Hodges and Olaf
Adam Shutler & friends
Stephen Palmer
Ed & Lorna
Sandy
Toby Clarke
Rich Hammond
Paul Hammond
JP Unwin
Ian Whittle
Claire Tarn & Lucy
James Freedman
Zoe Smith
Matt Simpson
Jon Davie
Andy Butland & Patricia
Darren & Sarah Gavigan
Kate Williamson
Richard Sullivan
Tom Rollett
Steve Ryan
Michael Boston
Anna Hilton
Jenny Furmston
Fiona King
Bob Thust & Tracy Long
Ben Moore
Chris Booth
Catriona Tate
Sarah Barnett






Kilimanjaro Music News

Looking back at my iPod it seems the tunes were pretty much describing what I was going through on summit night

Night before
- Insomnia - Faithless
- Dosed - Red Hot Chili Peppers
- Good Luck - Basement Jaxx
- One Day Like This - Elbow

The early ascent
- Go - Moby
- Show Me Heaven - Maria McKee
- Moving on Up - Primal Scream
- Little by Little - Oasis

Things get tricky
- Frozen - Madonna
- The Fear - Lily Allen
- No Air - Jordin Spark & Chris Brown
- Another Place to Fall - KT Tunstall

Getting to the rim (Gilman's Point)
- Distant Sun - Crowded House
- I Gotta Feeling - The Black Eyed Peas
- Oh My God - Mark Ronson & Lily Allen
- Apologize - Timbaland

Summit
- So What - Pink
- Teardrop - Massive Attack
- Dry Your Eyes - The Streets
- All You Good Good People - Embrace

Descent
- Bring Me Back to Life - Evanescence
- Feeling Good - Muse
- Just The Way I'm Feeling - Feeder
- Like a Rolling Stone - Bob Dylan

Back in camp
- Back for Good - Take That
- Live to Tell - Madonna
- God Put a Smile on My Face - Mark Ronson
- Take a Bow - Rihanna

All a bit spookily appropriate really

Kilimanjaro Day 7

Final day of the adventure. It's all about Kili beer time now...

- long walk down - 20k
- cloudy
- Sarah refuses to go up hills and threatens to send stiff memos
- 3 hours til lunch
- see monkeys in the trees
- see Fraggle in the tree
- 1.1k to go, turn over ankle. Bugger.
- Gate, phew all over, made it
- Beers, aaaaghhh. Photos
- Policeman, interogations, oh dear
- short drive to hotel
- relax, make speaches & undress in public if called Dave

Kilimanjaro Day 5

The day before the big one, oh how little we knew...

- clouds clear in the morning
- great views of Mount Wendy
- cross ridge and down to 'The Saddle'
- get to the airplane crash site -spooky
- see Kibo camp, only just across the way we think - wrong
- German / French couple having lunch at their own portable table - nobheads
- dust
- race Dave to the top of the camp
- nearly die, heart pounding, feel sick, not as young as I was - dumb ass
- two meals in 3 hours. Full.
- rubbish non-sleep of 4 hours. Head fizzing. Up at 11pm - gotta go...

Kilimanjaro Day 4

- longer day up to the base of Mount Wendy, as Lucy calls it
- moor land changes to rocks as we climb upwards
- acclimatisation walk up to the ridge in a cloud
- tea
- Fight Night kicks off (see Kilimanjaro Fight News)
- weird atmosphere in camp
- no amount of chill out yoga can deal with that
- let's all try and forget the criminal assault shall we?
- quiet dinner
- swiftly to bed

Kilimanjaro Day 3

Day 3 and alls well with world

- I actually get some sleep, feel much better thank you
- nice stroll in the countryside today
- second cave camp, great setting for Chicken Yoga
- tune into Swahili radio for the game - United v City.
- Dimitar Berbatov "lazy striker"
- Dave quite happy with Man United winner, bastards
- hearty meal
- shithead for once
- early to bed and early to rise

Kilimanjaro Day 2

The day in 10 words of phrases

- Friday in the real world
- porridge
- sunshine
- gentle 4 hours of walking
- feet surviving, blisters under control, thank the Lord (of Compeed plaster)
- moorland, walking towards the mountain's base
- great views of the Kenyan valley beyond
- light acclimatisation walk
- new routine - Chicken Yoga, soup, meat, desert, cards, bad sleep
- headachey

Kilimanjaro Day 1

So to summarise in 10 words of phrases so you don't get bored

- rollercoaster taxi ride
- meet porters
- set off up into the woods
- 4 hours of walking
- acclimatisation walk in the afternoon for 45 mins more
- Chicken Yoga, I see a pattern emerging here
- see the mountain for the first time
- good mood in camp
- cards
- chatting, snoring, pissing and actual camping = terrible sleep